Improvement in patterns fob gutting out shirts



@uitrit tstts gnent @fitte Letters Patent No. 78,325, dated Flay 26,1868.

IMPROVEMENT IN PATTERNS POR CUTTING OUT SHIRTS.

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TO ALL PERSONS TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME:

Be it known that I, JOHN W. RAND, of Charlestown, in the county ofMiddlesex, and State ot' Massa chusetts, have invented a New and UsefulSystem of. Cutting Shirts or Shirt-Patterns, and I do hereby .declarethe same to'be fully described in the followingr specifications, andYillustrated in the accompanying plates 1, 2, l3 of drawings.

Of such drawings- Plate 1 denotes the series of yokes as formed with theneck-spaces, Sec., to be hereinafter described.

In plate 2, Figure 1 denotes aA front view of the pattern for forming orlaying out the front portion of shirts of any ordinary size. Figure 2denotes the bosom-pattern. Figures 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, and13 are patterns for hollowing the neck portion of bosoms.

In plate 3, Figure 14 denotes the sleeve-pattern, Figures 15 and 16being the front and back-side patterns,

- to be described hereinafter.

The object of my invention is to produce a simple mod'e or system ofcutting shirts or shirt-patterns, whereby a person wholly unskilled inthe art can, by means of the same, readily cut out a shirt orshirt-pattern of any ordinary size.

In plate 1 of the drawings, A A1A".A3'A4 A"5 A6 A7 AB A9 .A1o denotev aseries of yokes, each of which is formed with an obtuse-angular back, aa', and having in its front a curved necik-space, L J'K, each ot' saidopenings being-flanked by two curved portions c c.

This series of lneck-openings is so graduated, as to fit men having thelargest-sized necks as well as those having the smallest, and also ot'any intermediate size, or, in other words, those whose necks measureseventeen inches incir'cumference, down to thosewho measure only twelveinches.

Furthermore, each of these yokes has its two ends provided with a scaleof measurements, denoting the widths for the backs ot' shirts adapted tothe persons whose necks measure the number ot inches'marked under thenccleopening; that is,-the numbers on the arms or ends of theyoke-patterns indicate the width of the hack, or the points at which tocut the back, of a shirt for a person whose measurement across -theshoulders is agivcn numberl oi' inches.

*In4 iig. l ofiplate 2, O denotes a rectangular pattern for laying outthe front of a shirt or shirt-pattern, the said pattern having arectangular bosom-space, A B C D, extending down from 'its upper side inmanner as represented; This front-pattern I form with a scale ofmeasurements for the width ofthe fronts .of thevarious sizes of shirtsand shirt-patterns, so arranged aste correspond with the distancesdifferent persons may measure across the shoulders. For instance, if aperson measures twenty inches across thc shoulders, we have only to laythe pattern on the cloth to be cut, and niark the point 20 on each sideof the bosom-opening. These numbers are sc graduated as to correspondwith the same numbers on the yoke, (for giving the width of the back ofthe sh'irt,) but the numbers on the said front-pattern do not indicatethe actual number of inches, but simply show the width the front shouldhave, (allowing for'fullncss across the breast, and also for all scams,)to be'a counterpart fora hack of a given size.

In figs. 15 and 16, plate 3, R and S denote, respectively, the patternsfor forming the sides of the front andhack of the shirt, F G denotingthe curved arm-opening or size, and G H the curved side lines. Thedotted line F denotes the line to be brought into coincidence with thebottom line of the yoke-in laying out the back o f a sack-shirt.

In plate 2, I I', dto., denote the series of patterns for hollowing outthe neck portions of the bosoms for different-sized necks, which aresimply to be laid upon the bosoms, and the curved part, m n o, cut orhols lowed out. i

In iig. 2, plate 2, H denoterthe bosom-pattern, which is of arectangular shape, and is of the proper size for cuttinga bosom for anyordinarysized, person.

' '.he sleeve-pattern Q,-as'shown in iig. 14 of plate 3, is formedtapering from its top to its bottom, the upper part being curved to tltothe arm-size of theA shirt. This sleeve-patteruis provided with tiroscales, or measure-- ments, or divisions for diii'ereut lengths andwidths of sleeve, the whole being as shown in the said figure.

As the neck-band of the shirt and the wristbands are plain rectangularpieces of clout-h, no pattern is needed for either, they being of suchwidth as may be desirable.

My invention is designed for'cntting 'either what are-termed sack oryokeshirts..

Having described the parts of my said i-nventio'n, I will now proceed todescribe the manner of using the same.

If we suppose that the proper measurements havebeen taken, that. is, thecircumference or size of the neck, the distance across the shoulders,and the length of the arm and its circumference at the shoulder Aand thewrist, if we desire to cutwhat is termed a yoke-shirt, we'first take thefront-pattern O and la'y it on the clothito be cut; next, commencing atthe pointA, mark out the rect-angular or bosom-space A B C D; next, fromthe -point A, mark along the top of the pattern to the left, until youcome to the number-that the person measures across the shoulders; next,'startingfrom the point D, mark along the'top of the pattern toward theright side, until you come to the same number onthat side; next,removethis pattern, and take'the side-pattern for front; place thecorner F at the point you stopped marking on the left side, being'careful that the top of the side-patterncoiueides with the pencil-lineon the cloth next, mark from F to G, thence to II; reverse the pattern,and inlikc manner mark out the other side; next, drawacross the bottom,or from the points Hz-H, and we have the front of the shirt laid out;next, eut in, accordance with the llines so made, and the front isfinished.

To cut the back, lay the yoke-pattern, that corresponds with the size ofthe neck, lengthwise ofthe cloth; next, mark from vJ'to'K, and along thetop to the number that the person measuresl across the shoulders; next,mark from J to L, and .along the Atop of the pattern to the same numberon the opposite side; next, mark along the bottom of the yoke, betweenthese two numbers; next, remove the said p attern, und draw a linebetween (each ot' the two end lines, and you have the yoke. Out twoyokes for each shirt, (one fora lining ofthe other;) next,lay-tllesde-patternfor back on the cloth far enough fromrthe edgetoallow it to be marked around; next, mark .from F to'G, thence to H;next, draw a line from the point E, straight across the clotl1,adistance four or five inches longer than the distance the personmeasures across the shoulders; that is, if. he measures twenty inches,draw the line twenty-tour orl twenty-five inches. This extra four orlive inches is to give thc .requisite'fullnesa and,'iu making, is to begathered in. Next, reverse the side-pattern, andv placerA the corner Fat the point you stopned marking, and draw around it as on the otherside, just described;` cut out ou lines made, and we have the back lofthe-shirt; next, lay the sleeve-pattern Q on the cloth, and mark fromthe centre of the-top part, in each direction, to the iguresdenotingthewidth of the top of the sleeve; next, lay oii the lower-part, or thatencompassing' the wrist,..of the required width; and next draw the twoside lines, and we have the pattern for the sleeve. y

VTocuta sack-shirt, we tirst lay out .and cut the front precisely in themanner of a yoke-shirt, as before mentioned. To eut the back of asack-shirt, we rst mark out the yoke crosswise of the-cloth; next,remove" the'pattern, and take the'back-side pattern, and place the pointF ou the bottom liuc of the yoke, at its lower corner; next bring thedotted line F a: of thepattern into coincidence with the lower linemarked on the cloth, anddraw the line F Gr H; next reverse .thepattern,aud place the partF upon the' opposite lower corner ofthe yokeand bring the line F :z: into coincidence with the lower line of theyoke, and draw the line F GII; and lastly, draw a line from H to H.

When cutting out the back of a sack-shirt, do not cut the yokeseparat'e,but leave the yoke and body portion in one piece.

Having described mysaid improved system of cutting a shirt orshirt-pattern, vwhat I claim therein is as ,follows :l i

I claim, first, my improved system of cutting `shirts or shirt-patterns,the same consisting in the employment or combination of a front-plate orpattern, O, Va series of yoke-plates or patterns, A A1, &c'., abackeside plate, S, a front-side plate, R, a sleeve-pattern, Q, and abosom-pattern, H, the whole being constructed sub stantially in manneras set forth, and to he used together,`as and for theV purposedescribed.

I also claim the combination therewith of the series of plates I'I, 8tcfor cutting' 'out the neck portiouot` a bosom, as set forth.

I also claim the combination ot' the front-plate O with one ormoreyoke-plates, A, &e., each of Asuch parts being provided with a scale ofmeasurements or divisions so combined or arranged that the correspondingfigures ,on each indicate the width, respectively, for cuttingthefrontandback parts of shirts or shirt-patterns of any ordinary size.

I do not claim broadly making a plate .or pattern for the yoke of ashirt, but what I do claim'is `ryoke, formed with a series ofmeasurements or scale of divisions arranged near each end of it, inmanner as set for-th.

I also claim the front-plate O, provided not only with a scali*l ofdivisions, arranged as set forth, but formed with a rectangularbosom-space, A B C D, as explained.

. J. W. RAND.

Witnesses t THOMAS0 H. SYLvusTnin LYMAN' H. Brenner?.

